Happy Tobaski!

Every year in November, corresponding with the time of the Hajj to Mecca, there is a big Muslim holiday called Tobaski, the Festival of Sacrifice. It celebrates the willingness of Ibrahim to sacrifice his son Isma’il to Allah (however Allah intervened and gave Ibrahim a ram to sacrifice instead). Thus, husbands are expected to buy a ram (usually one for each wife). The ram is then slaughtered and the meat is divided into three parts, one part for the family, one for friends and relatives and the final to give to the needy.  In a way I suppose it is sort of the Muslim equivalent of Christmas. Most Gambians took a few days off to travel to their villages and feast on the ram with their friends and family. 

We were very privileged to be invited to spend Tobaski with the family of an embassy driver who lives in the area. We met Coolie at noon (making sure to miss the ram slaughtering which is in the morning) and he directed us to his family compound which was in the maze of small dirt roads that dominate the residential section of the Kombos. Upon arriving we were warmly greeted by Coolie’s wife, three brothers, sisters-in-law and more children than I could keep track of.  Being vegetarian I was not expecting to benefit much from the feast but Coolie’s wife very kindly prepared me some of the most delicious fish I have ever eaten. At first we felt a little awkward sitting around the small living room making small talk - which was pretty limited considering we don’t speak any Mandinka, Wolof, Jula or Fula. It was a long afternoon of sitting, eating and watching. This may not sound very interesting but once we relaxed it was very enjoyable, Coolie‘s family were very kind and they did everything they could to make us comfortable. Pulling our chairs out on the street we all sat around drinking endless cups of ataya (very strong, bitter sweet tea made out of green tea, mint and a bucketful of sugar which is served in small glasses), discussing life and greeting the people who walked by. 

Coolie’s compound is next to the local mosque so it was a busy area. A local charity had donated a cow to the community and Zack was lucky enough to watch the cow slaughtering (I stayed back and drank more ataya). We left that evening feeling content after a day of good food and good company.